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Document Highlights
October 1999

MANGIA! MANGIA!

Francesco de'Medici in Spain requests Italian food.

Presented by: Bruce Edelstein, Medici Archive Project Researcher

DOCUMENT DATE:

Undated [1562]

FROM:

Unidentified Correspondent

PLACE: Spanish Court [probably Madrid]
TO: Secretary Antonio Serguidi
PLACE: Tuscan Court (probably Florence)

DOCUMENT CITATION:

Archivio di Stato di Firenze, Mediceo del Principato 1212, ins. 5, fol. 865 (letter fragment)

(Entry 4304 in the "Documentary Sources" database.)

TRANSLATION:
[...] In my opinion, the following rare and delicious foods could be shipped from Tuscany to us here in Spain: big marzolini cheeses, stored in wineskins filled with oil and then placed in wooden casks, in whatever quantity seems appropriate; Mantuan or Ferrarese salami; large Bolognese-style sausages made in Florence; Neapolitan sommate; the largest and most beautiful red apples that can be found, stored in baskets and then in a barrel or two, depending on the quantity; likwise, pears of various kinds; six or eight whole cheeses of cacio marzolino; parmigiano cheese would not be inappropriate, both for the table and for use in the kitchen; some casks of olives cured in the good Florentine way since these are superior to Spanish olives and will be thought a rare delicacy; a couple of cases of Pisan biscotti specially made with the finest sugar and wine-must; Neapolitan-style mostaccioli; numerous boxes of sugar candies made by the nuns with special care, since these will be considered wonderful here; if it is not too taxing for someone to transport from Bologna a case containing many flasks of beleadia made by an expert woman, I think that it would be much appreciated [...]

TEXT:
[...] Le cose che si potriano far condurre di Toscana qua in Spagna delitiosa et rare per magnar a mio iuditio sono l'infrascritte, cioè: marzolini grossi, poste in otri con olio et poi in barili di legno, in quella quantità che parerà a proposito; salami di Mantova o Ferrara; salsicciotti fatti in Firenze grossi alla Bolognese; sommate di Napoli; mele rose [rosse] et appiè le più belle et grosse che si potessero trovar, poste in canestri et poi in una botte o dua secondo la quantità; et similmente pere di più sorte; sei o otto forme di cacio marzolino; parmigiano non sarebbe fuori di proposito, così per servitio della tavola come della cucina; qualche barile d'olive della buona concia di Firenze che avanzano quelle di Spagna et saria cosa rara; un paro di casse di biscotti pisani fatti a posta con zuchero et musco in tutta eccelentia; mostaccioli alla napolitana et parecchi scatole di zuccherini fatti dalle monache, che qua riuscirebbono cosa maravigliosa, fatti massimamente con diligentia; chi potessi o volessi condurre in una cassa parecchi fiaschi di beleadia di Bologna fatta da buona maestra credo che piacerebbe assai, se l'imbarazzo del condurre non disturba [...]

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND:
The Medici frequently exchanged large and small gifts with other princely courts, sending and receiving jewelry, textiles and works of art as well as specialty foodstuffs. Since the present fragmentary letter was found in a run of correspondence from the entourage of Prince Francesco de'Medici (later Grand Duke Francesco I) during his state visit to Spain in 1562, the Prince might well have intended to offer these treats to Spanish courtiers at his own table.

The Medici sought out the best and most novel food items and did not limit themselves to local Tuscan specialities. In some cases we can identify the products under discussion since they are still esteemed as delicacies four centuries later. "Parmigiano" (Parmesan cheese) scarcely requires explanation. Marzolino is a sheep's milk cheese, traditionally made in the spring; the ones stored in oil in wineskins must have been fresh and fairly small ("grossi" could be taken to mean "plump" as well as "big".) The cacio marzolino was probably a larger and more aged version of the same.

The "large Bolognese-style sausages made in Florence" might have been local imitations of the celebrated Bolognese mortadella (also known as "Bologna Sausage" or even "baloney".) . In current usage, "salami di Mantova" are small, hard garlic-flavored products. The Ferrarese "salami" (or "la salama di Ferrara") is larger and softer; it is normally eaten cooked (rather like "cotechino".)

The Bolognese beleadia (evidently a liqueur or cordial) "made by an expert woman" is probably a convent production, like the "sugar candies" that precede it in the list. It is curious to note that the essential sugar for these zuccherini and also the biscotti pisani probably came from the New World by way of Spain in the first place. Mostaccioli (sweets made with wine-must and dried and candied fruits) are still associated with Naples, though they are also produced in other regions.

RESEARCH QUERY: We are eager to hear any ideas regarding the "sommate di Napoli." From their placement in the list, they would seem to be a variety of sausage. Please reply to: info@medici.org

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© 1999 by The Medici Archive Project